VERY fine NYT piece today on a new trend in california pinots: a backing away from the power of the fruit bomb that has defined the regional style and toward the finesse and elegance of a burgundian style pinot.
eric asimov, who wrote the story, here, is one of my favorite chroniclers of the vine, and he has the perfect blog voice -- he's a serious but somehow casual drinker, and there is no bs class association to his assessment of wine. (the fact that his uncle all but taught me to read with his wonderful books on science and sundry "facts" only makes me feel warmer to this dude i have never met.)
anyone who has spent time with me in the warmer months knows there are few things i like better -- especially if we are eating salmon, duck, mushroom dishes, some kinds of steak -- than pinot. my original love of pinot came from heavy, fruity california varieties from sideways country -- melville, au bon climate, sanford -- but my taste has since moved to more elegant versions. some oregon pinots -- the hard-to-find cristom -- and new zealand's peregrine hit the sweet spot for me. (i recently had a beaune burgundy at palate food + wine that blew me away.)
so i was glad to see this development asimov chronicles. he speaks to jim clendenen of au bon climate as well as the guy behind arcadia, which may be the finest american pinot i know. (the latest vintage currently sitting on the shelves at colorado wine co.)
LET ME ALSO URGE ALL READERS OF THIS POST TO VOTE IN MY WINE POLL, DOWN THE RIGHT MARGIN. LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD!!
Photo credit: NYT